Terry's Gardening Tips
Tree Planting
A properly selected tree planted in an appropriate location can reduce energy usage for home heating and cooling, act as a windbreak, reduce noise, control erosion, clean the air and increase property values. Planting a tree is an investment in time, money, and the future. Here are a few tips to insure that you get a good return on your investment. Please select a spot for your tree by considering its mature size especially when choosing a tree for planting near your home or beneath existing electric or phone lines.
Digging The Hole
Before you begin digging the planting hole for the tree you must call the Ohio Utility Protection Service at 1-800-362-2764. This 'one call" system will locate all buried utility lines that you may not be aware of in your yard. In Ohio it is the law to "call before you dig". If you dig through and damage an underground utility line you could be injured, experience a service disruption and incur financial responsibility for repairs to damaged utility lines.
The planting hole should be dug to a depth that is 2" less than the tallest portion of the root ball. The width of the planting hole should be between two and three times as wide as the root ball. It is better to that the tree is planted slightly higher rather than slightly lower than the adjacent ground elevation.
Planting The Tree
Container grown trees should be carefully removed from the container. Once removed, carefully prune circling roots and those matted at the bottom. For trees that are balled and burlapped there is no need to prune roots as this has already been completed. Instead once the tree and root ball are positioned in the planting hole and will not be moved or re-positioned, focus your efforts on removing burlap from the top and sides of the root ball. You don't need to remove all of the burlap on the sides however it is helpful to remove as much as you can without causing the tree to be shifted unnecessarily. For backfilling the planting hole mix equal parts of the soil removed from the planting hole, a rich composted material and any type of fertile loamy material such as commercially available topsoil that has been fortified with peat moss. Gently firm the soil in layers and regularly check that while backfilling the tree remains straight and "plumb". Lightly compacting the soil helps to eliminate air pockets that may cause problems for the tree and root growth. If the tree is planted in a location subject to high winds or is top heavy with a small root ball it may be necessary to stake the tree for stability. Never leave trees staked for longer than needed and certainly no longer than one year.
Adding Mulch
Applying a good mulch material will help protect tree roots from temperature extremes, helps to conserve moisture in the soil, eliminates competition for soil nutrients and should eliminate the need for trimmers near the thin bark of the newly planted tree. Be sure to keep an area 1 to 2 inches from the tree trunk clear of all mulch. There are many mulching materials available and the selection of mulch is often based on appearance and personal preference. Whatever mulch material is chosen, the continued health and vigor of the tree should never be compromised by increasing the overall mulch thickness to more than 3". Adding mulch to a thickness greater than 3" causes a myriad of problems, none of which are good for the tree!
Water Regularly
It is best to water a tree immediately after it is planted. Thereafter, water the tree on a regular basis using about 15 gallons during each watering cycle during the first growing season. Depending on daytime temperatures and wind conditions, the watering schedule should be adjusted from once a week during milder temperatures to as often as every other day when temperatures are above 85 degrees. Watering should be directed toward the base of the tree and be applied slowly so that the water has an opportunity to soak into soil around the root ball. Applying water directly to the foliage is neither recommended nor healthy for the tree. Watering should be gradually reduced in late September as photosynthesis slows and the tree prepares for winter dormancy.
For additional information contact Terry Willenbrink at (513) 792-8355 or visit the International Society of Arboriculture at www.isa-arbor.com.